Item Description
Original Item. One-of-a-Kind. This is one of the most phenomenal uniform pieces we have ever offered, one that still warrants a great deal of research. During the Revolutionary War and Federal periods, a number of American volunteer units were raised in which the men were only called on to wear a coats or jackets of same color, thereby a coat could have double use--both for civilian activities and military service, but still afford a degree of uniformity in a unit without great cost to the members. Given the military aspects of the uniform and its lack of buttons or buttonholes, we believe this to be an example meant for both civilian & military use.
This is an extraordinarily scarce uniform coat, the construction of which clearly dates to the period 1770-1785. The coat was originally purchased from an antique dealer in New England many years ago. The coat is made of a relatively fine broadcloth, not quite superfine, with fall-down collar and "round" cuffs of the same, the breast of the coat, collar and cuffs edged with 3/8-inch-wide gold lace. The cuffs are 3 1/4 inches deep and the "fall" of the collar is 2 inches and rounded in front. There is another band of lace parallel to the edging on the cuff, set in approximately 1 inch. The skirts are trimmed with the same lace as the edges of the coat, but with a loop at the top of each "false" side plait, with three branching lengths of lace, each approximately 9 inches in length and ending in a fringe tassel 1¾ inch long.
The skirts of the coat hook back in standard 18th century military manner with hooks and eyes at the ends. Inside, the coat is completely lined in linen dyed a pale orange shade and it has welted pockets with deep bags at the skirts. The coat was constructed without a single button or buttonhole, which gives credence to it being military.
Of note, the lace arrangement on the false skirts mirrors that seen on British light dragoon jackets from c. 1778-1800 and are almost identical to what was prescribed by Henry Knox for US rifle coatees in 1787. The rows of lace set on the cuffs was often used as a rank distinction during this period in lieu of epaulettes or shoulder knots and we know that during both the French and Indian War & the Revolutionary War, the British Army sometimes removed the lapels from their coats to reduce both weight and keep soldiers cooler in hot weather campaigning. The coat is merely closed in front with two sets of hooks and eyes.
The coat shows a good amount of period wear, with some scattering mothing in the red fabric along the bottom edge of the uniform. There is some sweat-staining under the arms as well as stress at that point from period activity. There is a 3 inch rent below the armhole on the right side, and the armhole seam is open roughly 2 inches on the left side. There is wear to the elbows, and the left elbow has a neatly done, period patch measuring approximately 1 x ½ inches. This is a coat that saw heavy period usage.
This is a tremendous uniform that certainly has roots in military use, during a period without any sort of solid uniform regulation. This coat is roughly 250 years old, and has been carefully and meticulously preserved during that time. It is very fragile, and extra care must be taken in displaying and further preserving it. This is a once-in-a-lifetime piece, one that we won’t see another example of anytime soon. Comes ready for further research and display!
Approximate Measurements:-
Collar to shoulder: 8"
Shoulder to sleeve: 23”
Shoulder to shoulder: 13"
Chest width: 17.5”
Front length: 42"
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